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4x4 light on dash flashing

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wilf
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Joined: 07 Dec 2013
Posts: 185
Location: Norfolk

PostPosted: Thu Dec 13, 2018 22:56    Post subject: Reply with quote

eithan h wrote:
top of tank and fuel filter primer unit are common causes of air in to the fuel system


When you say "Top of tank" are you referring to steel pipes that pass over the top of the tank?

And with regard to the fuel filter primer unit do you mean pipework to the unit or the unit itself?

Should the primer plunger be hard to press down after a few pumps or not? I pumped mine a good 6 to 8 times and the plunger did not go hard to press! Is this correct?
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eithan h
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 14, 2018 0:15    Post subject: Reply with quote

the tank has metal pipes coming off the top of it that go rusty which results in a new tank and the primer unit itself goes faulty and should go hard after a few presses although some times the one way valve you can see when you take the filter off won't seal and needs bending back a bit
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wilf
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 14, 2018 0:24    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for that Eithan,

So the fact that my primer does not go hard could mean the one-way valve is not sealing or a leak somewhere in the system. If a leak somewhere, would it be fair to assume that if I press the primer button quite a few times it would push diesel from the point where the leak is and hopefully I may see a drip or two?
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eithan h
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 14, 2018 19:51    Post subject: Reply with quote

doubtful i just bypass each bit in turn so i bypass the housing first if it doesn't start any better then try a new fuel supply, if it gets to the point where you have a new supply and the filter is bypassed then your looking at other issues rather than a fuel issue
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wilf
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 14, 2018 21:06    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks.

Have not done the white wire test yet. It was a bit cold today then the hail storm was the final straw.

It is strange that for 4.5 years since I did the ORPS replacement it has not missed a beat now with no misfiring, poor starting or running rough, it just fails to start, not even the hint of a fire when cranking.
Are the ORP sensors prone to regular failure?
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wilf
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2018 1:00    Post subject: Reply with quote

eithan h wrote:
see if the vacuum swaps over from one pipe to the other when the switch is pressed, you should only have vacuum on one pipe at any time so if you got a vacuum on them both then either the actuators are seized or the the wire has broken inside the insulation. basically the ecu knows your activating the 4wd and it's looking for the signal from the switch on the actuator then it will make the light either go solid or go out depending on what your going in to. it's not seeing the switch trigger so either the switch wiring has broken out the top of the switch or the solenoids have seized or the wiring to the solenoids has broken inside the insulation.


I removed the pipes from both VSV's on the front axle and started the engine. With the switch in 2WD there was no vacuum on either of the pipes. When switched to 4WD there was vacuum on the pipe from the grey VSV which goes to the outboard side of the actuator which I believe is correct for 4WD.

From what you say this could mean a stuck blue VSV? I have removed them both and the plan is to power the blue VSV with 12v to determine if it clicks. If it is stuck is there anything I can spray into the VSV whilst powering on and off to help free it without damaging anything internally?

Is it ok to blow compressed air through it?
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eithan h
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2018 12:03    Post subject: Reply with quote

either stuck or wire broken or blocked up, if it does click then short blasts of air is ok
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wilf
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2018 12:31    Post subject: Reply with quote

eithan h wrote:
either stuck or wire broken or blocked up, if it does click then short blasts of air is ok


No clicking on blue vsv, grey vsv clicked and the air diverts correctly when blown through. Grey showed 42.3 ohms across terminal blue showed open circuit.

I guess I can say this is the culprit?
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eithan h
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2018 16:16    Post subject: Reply with quote

id say so
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wilf
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2018 18:53    Post subject: Reply with quote

eithan h wrote:
id say so


Ordered new pair. Ripping these apart to have a nose.  hmmm
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jacksdad1963
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 30, 2018 16:20    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've posted a full reply in your other post on this topic: Rob the warm up 'do not touch button' VSV's  Very Happy
_________________
1999 3.0 TD Duty SWB
3" Body lift, 3" suspension lift, diff dropped, balljoints flipped, extended panhard, Tree sliders, Superwinch, +2" Pro Comps, 33" Mudders: Nearly finished!
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wilf
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Joined: 07 Dec 2013
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Location: Norfolk

PostPosted: Mon Dec 31, 2018 0:09    Post subject: Reply with quote

jacksdad1963 wrote:
I've posted a full reply in your other post on this topic: Rob the warm up 'do not touch button' VSV's  Very Happy


*******************************

Got it, thanks.
salute
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wilf
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 31, 2018 0:16    Post subject: Reply with quote

Took the vsv apart and there was a blob of rust on the piston. Cleaned it up and I think it would have worked ok but the coil was broken which I think I am right in saying you cannot get to without destroying the casing.

Here's a pic of inside the vsv: https://www.dropbox.com/s/75tn89dja1q5trf/troopervsv002.jpg?dl=0

Had to buy new as needed to get back on the road, thried a few local breaker with no luck. They come as a pair on the metal frame. Looking on the bright side, at least if one fails now I have a spare. I guess there is no difference between the blue and grey vsv other than the molded tag to stop you connecting the wrong electrical connector to the wrong vsv.
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jacksdad1963
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2019 18:08    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Wilf, can you tell me the part numbers of the new VSV's please?
_________________
1999 3.0 TD Duty SWB
3" Body lift, 3" suspension lift, diff dropped, balljoints flipped, extended panhard, Tree sliders, Superwinch, +2" Pro Comps, 33" Mudders: Nearly finished!
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wilf
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Joined: 07 Dec 2013
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Location: Norfolk

PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2019 22:07    Post subject: Reply with quote

jacksdad1963 wrote:
Hi Wilf, can you tell me the part numbers of the new VSV's please?


The Isuzu part number is 8971018581 (Valve Unit Axle). From main dealer in UK £140.96 Incl. VAT.
From this place in UAE recommended by C.B. on this forum £85 Incl. Shipping and tax and import duty and about 3 to 5 day delivery. Here is the link, 3rd item down:
https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/genuine/unit?c=Isuzu&ssd=%24%2AKwHd6fjy26SfitaKpd-bgIWRsbao2dbb2sjRyY6JjIGLrt7YjoiVkZuHjJeu3pXB0Zav2d8AAAAAYqiLLg%24&vid=50757&cid=4479&uid=73300&q=

Links to pics of new units:

vsv-02

vsv-03
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