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Volt meter fluctuation


 
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Pupito
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Joined: 03 Jan 2019
Posts: 7
Location: Aylesbury

PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2019 20:58    Post subject: Volt meter fluctuation Reply with quote

Hi all,

I'm a newbie on here. Not very mechanical, but trying to keep my Bighorn on the road. So any help would be much appreciated.

The volt meter during the day is reading around 13 and as soon as i put the lights on it drops to around 9.
When its at around 9 i notice the breaks going stiff.

I have kept the battery on a maintenance charger and it has just had a new Alternator and starter motor fitted. The battery is also new but was fitted about a week before the Alt and starter motor. As i thought the issues i was having were battery related at first.

So after an expensive , Alt , battery and starter change. Its still not right.

Starter motor needed replacing and is now fine.
Battery i'm keeping on a maintenance charge.

Alternator is another thing, either the one fitted is not working well, or not fitted properly, or????????

And the breaks are still stiff, which i'm guessing has to do with the vac pump in the alternator.

I hope someone can advise me.

Many thanks
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2019 20:58    Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join!


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eurag
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Joined: 13 Mar 2014
Posts: 35
Location: west sussex

PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2019 21:43    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like the alternator belt isn't tight enough.
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1993 Irmscher Bighorn 3.1 SWB Auto


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Pupito
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Joined: 03 Jan 2019
Posts: 7
Location: Aylesbury

PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2019 22:46    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for your advise.
I'll see if that makes a difference. I'm sure the mechanic that did it for me can adjust it.
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jacksdad1963
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Joined: 26 Jul 2011
Posts: 1939
Location: Oldham, Lancs

PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2019 18:04    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its very easy to test the voltage yourself. Buy a basic multimeter for under a tenner, set it to the correct 20V pointer. You can check if you have DC and not 'mains' electric by putting the meter leads on your battery, everything switched off..red is +tive and black is -tive...have a mooch on youtube for guidance, its super easy!
Now, start your engine, let it run for a few minutes and check the voltage across the battery posts once again. It should read at least 12.5V at idle, get someone to rev the engine, above 2000 RPM it should give you a reading of 13.5 to 14.5V. If the figure is lower, you have a charging fault.

YouTube is an amazing source of info, I don't really remember how we managed before!
_________________
1999 3.0 TD Duty SWB
3" Body lift, 3" suspension lift, diff dropped, balljoints flipped, extended panhard, Tree sliders, Superwinch, +2" Pro Comps, 33" Mudders: Nearly finished!
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Pupito
Newbie


Joined: 03 Jan 2019
Posts: 7
Location: Aylesbury

PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2019 20:22    Post subject: Reply with quote

jacksdad1963 wrote:
Its very easy to test the voltage yourself. Buy a basic multimeter for under a tenner, set it to the correct 20V pointer. You can check if you have DC and not 'mains' electric by putting the meter leads on your battery, everything switched off..red is +tive and black is -tive...have a mooch on youtube for guidance, its super easy!
Now, start your engine, let it run for a few minutes and check the voltage across the battery posts once again. It should read at least 12.5V at idle, get someone to rev the engine, above 2000 RPM it should give you a reading of 13.5 to 14.5V. If the figure is lower, you have a charging fault.

YouTube is an amazing source of info, I don't really remember how we managed before!



Many thanks for the advise. I'll get get a multimeter this weekend and have a go.
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jacksdad1963
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Joined: 26 Jul 2011
Posts: 1939
Location: Oldham, Lancs

PostPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2019 16:39    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good on you! Its really basic stuff, get on youtube, watch a few vids and teach yourself, you will soon be testing everything  Very Happy
_________________
1999 3.0 TD Duty SWB
3" Body lift, 3" suspension lift, diff dropped, balljoints flipped, extended panhard, Tree sliders, Superwinch, +2" Pro Comps, 33" Mudders: Nearly finished!
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Pupito
Newbie


Joined: 03 Jan 2019
Posts: 7
Location: Aylesbury

PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2019 11:29    Post subject: Reply with quote

jacksdad1963 wrote:
Good on you! Its really basic stuff, get on youtube, watch a few vids and teach yourself, you will soon be testing everything  Very Happy


Thanks.

Got one from Halfords. Looks like the "new" Alternator i had put on is not up to the job. Teach me to buy one from Fleabay. Its rubbish. It works but can't take the land when lights and stereo are on. The belt is tight, I have checked the wiring as much as i can. Had a mechanic friend look at it. Simple case of rubbish cheap part........... I hope.

Now i need to find a decent Alternator, any ideas anyone?
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DonaldNZ
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Joined: 07 Feb 2019
Posts: 14
Location: New Zealand

PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2019 11:51    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like your alternator & vacuum pump belt is loose
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DonaldNZ
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Joined: 07 Feb 2019
Posts: 14
Location: New Zealand

PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2019 11:57    Post subject: Reply with quote

Missed part of your post
the poor brake performance is sometimes a syptom of poor vacuum due to a loose belt.
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Pupito
Newbie


Joined: 03 Jan 2019
Posts: 7
Location: Aylesbury

PostPosted: Fri Mar 08, 2019 17:36    Post subject: Reply with quote

DonaldNZ wrote:
Missed part of your post
the poor brake performance is sometimes a syptom of poor vacuum due to a loose belt.


Thanks for reply. Yes it was the belt and Alternator. Annoyingly the alternator I had fitted was rubbish. I have had a new one fitted. Problem now is that the previous owner has removed the belt tensioner. So now it all works, breaks are fine but the belt is too loose and screeches. So now I need to find a bracket from somewhere.
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