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Removing connector on VSV


 
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wilf
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Joined: 07 Dec 2013
Posts: 185
Location: Norfolk

PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2018 15:48    Post subject: Removing connector on VSV Reply with quote

Can anyone tell me how to remove the connector pictured in the link below, without breaking it. I am cold and p****d orf.

You may have to copy and paste the link onto your browser.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/55nt8lp48hp55ig/vsv-01.jpg?dl=0
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Red Robbo
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Joined: 17 Feb 2008
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Location: Where ever I happen to be in my imagination but mainly Far East Sussex

PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2018 16:29    Post subject: Reply with quote

The wire clip round the connector body, flick it out of its seat and pull it out.
You 'll be right to pull the connector off then.
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wilf
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2018 17:01    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for getting back to me so quickly Robbo.

I was thinking that's what should happen but was concerned if I was missing something. I had tried it but gave up just before the wire 'pinged' out - cold and nervous about breaking the plug. Tried again and out it came.

I am actually removing the VSV's on the front axle for testing as I have a flashing FWD light on the dash. It was just easier to photograph a similar connection on the VSV's on the p/side inner wing.

Shall now test with 12v as I think the blue VSV is stuck. I have suction from the grey VSV with switch IN FWD but no suction from blue VSV when OUT of FWD. I imagine all I can do is connect and disconnect a 12v supply and perhaps gentle blow air through it in the hope it functions again. Is there anything safe to spray into the valve if needed? I was thinking something benign like silicone spray so as not to affect any rubber components.
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bigb
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2018 16:06    Post subject: Reply with quote

They are easy enough to service yourself, squeeze the metal tabs on the solenoid to separate it,it then pulls apart. clean the inside with wd40 and a cotton bud, there is a spring and a little piston, this usually gets corroded and jams.
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wilf
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Location: Norfolk

PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2018 17:22    Post subject: Reply with quote

bigb wrote:
They are easy enough to service yourself, squeeze the metal tabs on the solenoid to separate it,it then pulls apart. clean the inside with wd40 and a cotton bud, there is a spring and a little piston, this usually gets corroded and jams.


Thanks for the info.

I measured the resistance of the coils and on the working grey VSV it is 42ohm. On the non working blue VSV it is open circuit. I think this means there it is not a case of being stuck but broken wires internally. I am no electronics expert so I may be wrong. I will however take it apart as I am interested to see what is in there.
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jacksdad1963
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Joined: 26 Jul 2011
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 30, 2018 15:59    Post subject: Reply with quote

I tried stripping and cleaning mine without success, they are very basic switches so not a clue why they didn't respond!
If you find a faulty one, swap it for the 'do not touch' warm up solenoid ones mounted on the drivers side engine bay/inner wing area: you can't miss them. Never known anyone to benefit from the warm up system, it simply blocks the exhaust which makes the engine work harder to run, hence warming up quickly...then sticks in the closed position. I've even removed the flap from inside the exhaust and all the junk that goes with it, including the solenoids (now on front axle) and all the vac piping, then blocking off the last bits with 6mm bolts.
The solenoids are same colour codes, but one pipe is at a different angle, I also replaced the pipes with red silicone ones, so easy to tell old from new!
You can simply re-fit the faulty solenoids in the warm up circuit and leave it all connected  Very Happy
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wilf
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Joined: 07 Dec 2013
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Location: Norfolk

PostPosted: Mon Dec 31, 2018 0:05    Post subject: Reply with quote

jacksdad1963 wrote:
I tried stripping and cleaning mine without success, they are very basic switches so not a clue why they didn't respond!
If you find a faulty one, swap it for the 'do not touch' warm up solenoid ones mounted on the drivers side engine bay/inner wing area: you can't miss them. Never known anyone to benefit from the warm up system, it simply blocks the exhaust which makes the engine work harder to run, hence warming up quickly...then sticks in the closed position. I've even removed the flap from inside the exhaust and all the junk that goes with it, including the solenoids (now on front axle) and all the vac piping, then blocking off the last bits with 6mm bolts.
The solenoids are same colour codes, but one pipe is at a different angle, I also replaced the pipes with red silicone ones, so easy to tell old from new!
You can simply re-fit the faulty solenoids in the warm up circuit and leave it all connected  Very Happy


**************

Stripped mine ok and cleaned a blob of rust from the piston but I believe the reason it did not work is because the coil had broken which I don't think you can get at without destroying the casing. Link to pic of switch - as you say very simple. I think it would have worked had it only been the rusty piston that was making it stick. I don't know if it is possibly that the stuck valve caused the coil to fail.

I did look at those vsv's on the inner wing but not knowing much about the 4WD system I thought knowing my luck there will be something different about them so I had to bit the bullet and by a pair. No luck at a few local breakers and needed the vehicle back on the road.

I have heard that warm-up flap gets stuck. Have never pressed my button but how would I know if my were stuck closed (in warm-up), would it be obvious with lack of power?
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wilf
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 31, 2018 0:06    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's that link I forgot to put in my last post above:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/75tn89dja1q5trf/troopervsv002.jpg?dl=0
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jacksdad1963
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2019 17:59    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've swapped both over the years and alls well, the end pipe is angled differently but they work exactly the same as far as I can see.
As for the warm up flap, if it was stuck the engine wouldn't run once warmed up even a little. I wanted to gut the filter/cat out completely, so knocked all the honeycomb junk out, so from the outside it looks standard, as opposed to a vehicle with a blatant de-cat pipe fitted.
Whilst I had the front pipe off, I cut off the warm up mechanism and removed the entire load of junk! Much less stuff to go wrong now.
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3" Body lift, 3" suspension lift, diff dropped, balljoints flipped, extended panhard, Tree sliders, Superwinch, +2" Pro Comps, 33" Mudders: Nearly finished!
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wilf
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Location: Norfolk

PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2019 21:45    Post subject: Reply with quote

jacksdad1963 wrote:
I've swapped both over the years and alls well, the end pipe is angled differently but they work exactly the same as far as I can see.
As for the warm up flap, if it was stuck the engine wouldn't run once warmed up even a little. I wanted to gut the filter/cat out completely, so knocked all the honeycomb junk out, so from the outside it looks standard, as opposed to a vehicle with a blatant de-cat pipe fitted.
Whilst I had the front pipe off, I cut off the warm up mechanism and removed the entire load of junk! Much less stuff to go wrong now.


Neat.

I would not want to press the switch by mistake. I have never studied that part so not familiar with it at all. Can just the flap be removed and if so does the front pipe have to be removed to do it?
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jacksdad1963
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2019 21:49    Post subject: Reply with quote

You need to remove the front pipe to get at the insides, its quite easy though...done much worse!
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wilf
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Location: Norfolk

PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2019 22:11    Post subject: Reply with quote

jacksdad1963 wrote:
You need to remove the front pipe to get at the insides, its quite easy though...done much worse!


OK, thanks very much.
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