Isuzu Trooper Owners Club UK™

Oli · * Joined: 27 Apr 2006 Posts: 10

Hello, this is my first post here,

Having some severe engine problems with my 2.8; the symptoms are a lot of exhaust smoke, oil squirted out onto underside of bonnet, rough running on idle, slight chuffing noise and a lot of oil being forced out of somewhere (possibly dipstick tube).
I have been told is probably the turbo, but the rotor doesn't feel loose (from the intake end) and there is no oil in the tubes between the turbo outlet and inlet manifold (just black soot).
Could it be the head gasket?
If not any other ideas? When it happened I lost power at around 70mph with my foot on the floor..
There is a small chance I could have slightly over filled with oil..

Thanks for any help,
Oli

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WILLIE13 · Posted: Thu Apr 27, 2006 10:16 Post subject: head or turbo

hiya mate, when you look into the turbo is there oil settled in front of the rotor Question

. there should be slight traces but not a small puddle.
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Mk 1 1990 Irmscher . S. 2.8 TDI Trooper.

Oli · * Joined: 27 Apr 2006 Posts: 10

I don't recall there being any, but I will check this afternoon.
What should the rotor feel like when being turned by hand? Should there be any resistance or should it spin freely and smoothly?
Thanks,
Oli

markymoan · Posted: Thu Apr 27, 2006 10:42 Post subject:

It could also be broken piston rings, this could cause lack of power and the back pressure you describe,
Oh and do check the oil level just incase it is overfilled Smile

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Oli · * Joined: 27 Apr 2006 Posts: 10

Thanks for the replies,
I thought it might be the piston rings, but I guess I'll find out when I take the head off.
Today I disconnected the turbo and ran the engine. No oil coming from the turbo, still lumpy on idle and still lots of smoke from the exuast. The turbo is totally clean and dry, and has no play at all so I think I will assume it is ok for now.

siweb · ******* Joined: 18 Apr 2004 Posts: 1590

It sound the same as what mine was doing m8, back pressure
1st thought is ring, but with the age of the engine the liners and piston may also be worn, are a combination of all of them.

However mine also had other engines problems.

Is it smoking like this?

http://www.itocuk.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=3278
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Roscoe · * Joined: 16 Apr 2006 Posts: 43 Location: New Zealand

Gday, If there is oil being forced out of the dipstick tube then that means the crankcase is being pressurised.

This is normally caused by severe combustion blow-by past the piston rings or one of the combustion sealing rings has been breached on the head gasket and its open to one of the oil return passages back to the sump.

Was there any sudden knocking when this happened? If so, then the culprit may be a piece of ring land has broken away from one of the pistons or the rings them selves have broken

Also, if the crankcase breather is plumbed into the air intake (Positive crankcase ventilation) then there will be a lot of oil going through the turbo which will explain the blue smoke. ( I presume its blue)

Remove the breather hose from the intake line and start the engine, if the crankcase is being pressurised then you will notice a positive pressure from the line and also it may pulse in time with one of the cylinders if there is a definite combustion fault.

Cheers mate
Roscoe

dani4JB1T · Posted: Sat Apr 29, 2006 1:33 Post subject:

another engine with similar symptoms over here.... Sad

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dani4JB1T · Posted: Sat Apr 29, 2006 2:09 Post subject:

The manual say put new head bolts after remove stock ones...that is necessary ??
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all you have to do to call
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kindwarf · * Joined: 01 Apr 2006 Posts: 31 Location: huddersfild

Idealy it is necessary to use new head bolts because when you do the final torquing up, there is a built in springiness for want of a better word that stretches the bolt to get the final tension and old bolts have lost that springiness and will not hold the head evenly and may snap if you try to tighten them a second time.
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94 swb trooper 3.2 petrol auto

dani4JB1T · Posted: Sat Apr 29, 2006 2:39 Post subject:

mmmhhh....yes...now you say it, sounds pretty logical. I wonder if the GM spare shop here at town has the set of these head bolts. Im going to ask them tomorrow in the morning, hope they don`t be too expensive.
If not ...oops

thanks
_________________
all you have to do to call
is hold her hand, stand a while
and then smile and we'll understand

Roscoe · * Joined: 16 Apr 2006 Posts: 43 Location: New Zealand

Interesting comment about the head bolts.

Normally, If its the type of bolt that is designed to stretch, it will have a 'waist" on it. That is, the shank (non threaded portion) will taper in slighty then back out prior to the threads.

If it is this type of bolt then its critical that they get replaced each time because they may not shrink back to their original length when removed.

Another very important point is, when stretch bolts are tourqued up, they normally use the "Torque turn" method. This means that the bolts are torqued up as normal in 2 or 3 steps then the final step is a 90 degree turn of the bolt. Its this final step that actualy stretches the bolt.

Always check with your dealer or workshop manual if you are not sure.

Ive struck this on many trucks that I have worked on but not sure about smaller engines.

Cheers
Roscoe