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4JX1 Injector seal replacement


 
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moody blue
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Joined: 28 Jul 2007
Posts: 57
Location: s/glos

PostPosted: Mon Jul 06, 2020 13:46    Post subject: 4JX1 Injector seal replacement Reply with quote

Hi guys, just after any information regarding changing the o-rings on the injectors / sleeves.
1. I'm getting fuel in the coolant so is that the injector or sleeve o-rings.
2. how can I get hold of the specialist tools to do the job.
3. Where can I buy the parts
4. how long will it take
5. What would it cost for a garage to do
6. Is it worth the agro
I've put it out to stud now so using it as a field toy. I know it is frowned upon but what damage can Cherry do
I've seen some u-tube vids but would like your thoughts
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Swbeuro2commercial
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Joined: 07 May 2020
Posts: 21
Location: Fife

PostPosted: Thu Jul 09, 2020 23:00    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just did all this.
Tool of eebuygum for 42 quid made by laser. Search 3.0 trooper sleeve tool on eebuygum.

Call old mill Motors and ask for all seals. They sold me genuine. Pricey but price of mind.

Took me a few hours. Total novice.  Definitely under a day.

Don't know about cost at garage, see old mill Motors or independent isuzu.

Cherry won't do no damage unless the farm tank it's from hasn't been treated with biocide. Fresh red or white diesel is fine.

Some points to note: get yourself some o ring grease, drop the coolant before pulling sleeves though you don't have to drop off of it but I did for peace of mind,  you need a 27mm spanner for high pressure oil pipe but an 11/16 just fits if you tap it on with a hammer, be careful with the Orps plastic connector as I snapped it off clean.  Get contact cleaner to spray everything to get it all clean. When taking it all apart take the rail out with the injectors attached, but injector harness disconnected from injector solenoids. I read some use crow bars but I lay onto of the engine and put one hand at the front and the other at the back of the rail and pulled or wiggle it off.

When you get the sleeves out you need to use pliers to crimp the sleeve tool together to release it from the sleeve.
When putting the sleeves back in I lined the holes up so one was toward the front and the other toward the back of the engine, then used a 14mm dowel from b and q cost a few quid to tap them in. You will feel when they are fully seated as there's a lot of vibration back through the hammer.  I used a small allenkey the size of the holes in the sleeve to check they aligned with the corresponding hole in the head. I used the grinder to make the Allen key short enough to fit inside the sleeve.

When putting it back together put the rail in first, I had to pour some oil out to stop it going down sleeves. Don't tighten. Then injectors to rail with new seals if you have taken then off the rail. Don't fully tighten. Then the h brackets onto of injectors. dont fully tighten. Al handtight. Then Allen key bolts on injectors go to 6.5nm then the h brackets go to 30nm, slacken then 25nm. Then rail nuts and bolts to 20nm.

Don't know torque for the high pressure pipe. Just nipped it up.
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moody blue
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Joined: 28 Jul 2007
Posts: 57
Location: s/glos

PostPosted: Sat Jul 11, 2020 8:30    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the post, that sounds do-able for me
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