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Driveshaft boot (gaiter) change for a MK1 trooper guide

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Dave69
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Joined: 14 Aug 2006
Posts: 74

PostPosted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 9:01    Post subject: Driveshaft boot (gaiter) change for a MK1 trooper guide Reply with quote

Any comments please let me know and i'll add or change to suit. This works with the MK1 but can be applied to other varieties unless Isuzu changed the design and build of front drive shafts of subsequent models

Front driveshaft universal joint boot (gaiter) removal

Difficulty rating: Medium as it can be fiddly and very oily

Isuzu Trooper Mk1 auto locking hubs.

3/8th 15mm socket
3/8th extension bar
3/8th ratchet
½ drive 19mm socket
½ drive breaker bar
½ drive 22mm socket
½ drive 24mm socket
Pliers
Circlip pliers
Gloves (latex or similar)
Cleaning cloths

It is advisable to clean the universal joints and remove the majority of the old grease and then replace with new bearing grease, being careful not to over pack. Clean all points of the joint where the new boot ends will sit and secured with ties. Apply an anti-seize compound to all the bolts and nuts, renew the removed split pins if necessary.

Gloves are advised due to the chemical makeup of grease and oils.


1. With the vehicle stationary and the hand brake on use a 19mm socket and long bar or the vehicles wheel wrench and initially undo the 6 wheel nuts one 1/8th of a turn so to release the tightening torque.
2. Jack the car at the specified jacking point and safely support the vehicle on suitable axle stand(s).
3. Undo and remove the 6 wheel nuts being careful not to lose the washers and spring washers.
4. Remove the wheel and put out of the way. Under the car is easiest and if the axle stand does fail the car will stop on top of the wheel.
The wheel hub is now in full view.
5. On the auto hub locking mechanism there are 8 bolts that need to be undone. Use a 15mm socket and put a screwdriver into the vented part of the disk so when you undo the bolts the screwdriver will rest against the brake calliper and stop the hub from rotating.
6. When all of the bolts are undone carefully pull back the cover being careful not to lose and shims or spacers that might fall out.
7. Remove the spring clip at the end of the driveshaft and pull out the auto locking hub mechanism. Place these on a piece of card in order and orientation they come off the hub so reassembly is easier.
8. Carefully pull off the locking ring and place it next to the locking hub making sure it will go back on the way it came off.
9. There is a locking ring that is held in place by 3 Brass cross head screws this doesn’t need to be removed unless you wish to replace the brake disk as well. The ring underneath this rotates and holes the wheel bearing, turn it and it unscrews out leaving the disk etc to come away.
10. The brake calliper needs to be removed for ease of access. This is done by using a 22mm socket on two bolts on the inside of the hub. These are tight and will need a bit of effort to undo them if they haven’t been touched before.
11. The top and bottom ball joints need to be undone. A 22mm socket is needed for the top and a 24mm socket for the bottom. The split pins need to be removed and renewed.
12. To get the ball joints to come apart simply is use a club hammer and hit the hub part of the joint from both sides top and bottom. This might take a bit of time and depends on how hard you hit the hub. What this does is to shock the joints apart. Start with the top joint then move to the lower joint. Using a forked ball joint splitter is an option but they have a higher risk of splitting the ball joint rubber seal.
After a period of time the hub should be free and only connected by the steering control arm. The drive shaft should be able to be removed easily.
13. To remove the shaft completely, undo the clip holding the inner driveshaft boot to the bearing carrier. Pull the boot back and you will see a mass of black grease. If you pull the driveshaft back towards you, it will move but not come out. There is a big locking spring stopping the removal just inside the lip of the UJ socket. Use a small screwdriver to pop this clip out. The drive shaft will now be able to be pulled out.
14. If you look at the end of the shaft under the grease you will see a spring clip. Remove this and the ball race can now be pulled off.
15. Clean of all excess grease from the surfaces where the driveshaft boots (gaiters) will sit.
16. This now makes it easy to slide on the new outer boot (gaiter), repack with grease and secure in place with supplied fittings. Refit or renew the inner boot, repack with grease and refit the bearing race and spring clip.
17. Insert back into the bearing cup and fit the securing spring clip.
18. Secure the boot with the clip or supplied fittings.

Refitting is the opposite of removal in all the Haynes style. Apply anti seize compound to all threads. This will save nuts and bolts seizing in place and help for removal again in the future

Hold the hub in one hand offer the drive shaft through the hole. A bit of rotating of the disk might be needed to realign the splines.
Holding the hub again connect the bottom ball joint and refit the castlated nut. This only needs to be a few turns to get it started.
Reconnect the top ball joint in the same fashion. Tighten the top ball joint nut to the torque of 102Nm (75 ft/lbs).
Tighten the bottom ball joint to a torque of 102Nm (75 ft/lbs).
Refit the brake calliper and tighten the fixing bolts to a torque of 84 to 88Nm (62 to 65 ft/lbs)
With the locking hub next to you laid out in the order it was removed, replace each component in turn. Re-grease each part if needed.
Carefully add the spring clip to the end of the drive shaft.
Refit the locking hub cover and retorque to 23 to 30Nm (17 to 22 ft/lbs). Use a screwdriver to lock the hub as done on disassembly.

clickable image belowfor a bigger size


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 9:01    Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join!


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Dave69
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Joined: 14 Aug 2006
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 9:03    Post subject: Reply with quote

you might have to save trhe image to get a clearer view. clickable doesn't make it bigger i'm afraid
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brains
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Joined: 18 Aug 2006
Posts: 897

PostPosted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 23:54    Post subject: uj gater Reply with quote

dave thanx for the info  Smile must have taken ages to type Laughing ive printed it off and keeped it safe because you never know when  Question i hope it comes in as useful for every one els.
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markymoan
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Joined: 25 Jun 2005
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 25, 2006 0:42    Post subject: Reply with quote

Made sticky for all to see,
Great info  Very Happy
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Dave69
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Joined: 14 Aug 2006
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 25, 2006 8:07    Post subject: Reply with quote

didn't take that long, just sorting out how to get the basic picture to help was the main hassle.

work is great, work is helpful
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Breach
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Posts: 116
Location: Middlesex

PostPosted: Thu Aug 31, 2006 13:25    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Dave,
I found the sections 5 - 9 particularly helpful as I've been reluctant to touch the auto hubs.
I wanted to change both front disks a while back but ended up filing the edges flat because I didn't want a whole load of bits clips and stuff falling off with no way of getting them back, but your explanantion seems quite straight forward.
I've kept a hard copy in case in the future I need to get them off for any reason.

Thanks Martin
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Dave69
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Joined: 14 Aug 2006
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 31, 2006 15:53    Post subject: Reply with quote

the whole idea is to make repairs easier for everyone, especially simple tasks that do look daunting. I have used manuals from all kinds of manufacturers over the years and find that they can be confusing.

The trooper is totally new to me so any repairs i do i will document hopefully to help others and reduce potential garage servicing costs
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brains
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Joined: 18 Aug 2006
Posts: 897

PostPosted: Thu Aug 31, 2006 23:56    Post subject: drive shafts Reply with quote

good idea dave i think i will do the same , if it helps every one els i would be glad to help. Smile oh yes ive printed your document as well as i think that needs dooing soon.
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mukinfudy
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Joined: 17 Nov 2006
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 17, 2006 20:58    Post subject: CV boots Reply with quote

Hi i did both cv outer boots on my 88 LWB all usual bits take wheel of undo remove auto hubs dead easy if you watch what you do but i only released the top ball joint there is just enough room to get the cv joint out let the hub fall forward and turn the steering wheel fully right for the left hand joint and fully left for the right hand you can push the joint in board and you can then get the cv joint out disconect and change the boot. I did both on the trooper in 1 1/4 hours.
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mukinfudy
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 12:36    Post subject: CV BOOT CHANGE FURTHER INFO Reply with quote

WHEN CHANGED THE CV BOOT ON THE EARLY TROOPERS THERE IS A LOT OF INFO BUT EVEN I FORGOT TO ADD WHEN YOU HAVE PUT EVERYTHING BACK TOGETHER WHEN YOU COME TO PUTTING THE AUTO HUBS BACK ON DO FORGET TO SET THE PRE LOAD ON THE HUBS ,THE LOCKING RING THAT SCREWS OVER THE CV JOINT HAS TO BE DONE UP TIGHT AND THE PRE LOAD SET WITH A SPRING BALANCE SOMETHING LIKE FISHING SCALES IS GOOD BECAUSE THEY HAVE A HOOK PULL ON THE SPRING BALANCE WHILE ATTACHED TO ONE OF THE WHEEL BOLTS DO THIS A FEW TIMES IF YOU HAVE REPACKED THE BEARINGS SPIN THE HUB A FEW TIMES BY HAND THEN CHECK AGAIN WITH THE SPRING BALANCE UNTIL YOU GET A CONSISTENT 3.1 LBS THEN YOUR PRELOAD IS SET AND YOU WONT *beep* UP THE FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS.
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:::Matski:::
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Location: York

PostPosted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 14:52    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did my mk1 the other day and did not take the hubs off.

Below is a slightly different way of doing it, this worked for me.



1 Remove wheel

2 Pop track rod ball joint off

3 Undo bolts on bottom ball joint

4 If you like remove the bottom bolt of the shocker. This means you can swing the shaft past the shock for really easy access.

Then precede to dismantle CV as above.

Also I found it easier to leave the balls in the cage as the inner CV was clean.
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yintong5
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Joined: 11 Mar 2008
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Location: Wolverhampton, West Midlands

PostPosted: Wed Nov 25, 2009 16:15    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Dave,
Excellent guide, just finished changing the nearside outer gaiter, only problem was spending an hour trying to free the lower balljoint - in the end just undid the four bolts and pulled the whole joint off the lower suspension arm.
Also whole caliper assembly was a no-go so just tied the caliper out of the way.
Guy at the garage wanted to charge 100 quid as he said removing the outer CV joint was so difficult - not so when you pop the ball race from the inner assembly; don't know if I'd have cottoned onto that one myself.
Thanks again
Stu
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andyba
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Joined: 16 Jun 2009
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Location: Tadley, Basingstoke, Hampshire

PostPosted: Tue Dec 01, 2009 21:11    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does anyone if the procedure is similar on the '99 3.0L?
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dutyrunner
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Joined: 12 Mar 2009
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Location: Notts

PostPosted: Tue Dec 29, 2009 18:23    Post subject: Drive shaft boots Reply with quote

Interesting stuff, mine on the 3.0 are ready to be changed is it basicly the same job as the 3.1, as anyone done these on there 3.0
Cheers
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mekka
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 18:36    Post subject: boot Reply with quote

Must say I like matski,s method
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