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Another 3.0 td with starting trouble...

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normskee
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Joined: 07 Feb 2007
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Location: East Sussex

PostPosted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 10:43    Post subject: Another 3.0 td with starting trouble... Reply with quote

Can anyone give me some idea please...? I bought a '98 3.0 td about 3 weeks ago, drove it about 140 miles home and the following day it wouldn't start. So i replaced both batteries and all was fine for about 2 weeks, but was gradually turning over slower and taking longer to start. When it does it puts out a lot of white smoke. Now this morning it wouldn't start. (Had to be jumped). All the campaign work has been done (apart from the ceramic heater). I had no trouble at all with my 3.1 I had a few years ago, love the towing ability of this motor but don't need the grief. Drives superbly otherwise. Any pointers would be greatfully received.
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TimBanham
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 10:49    Post subject: Reply with quote

When this happened on mine it was the oil pressure sensor - but requires someone with a box of tricks to check and replace

you need access to a tech2 computer to check properly

If you haven't got an Isuzu dealer near by then call out a mobile tuning mechanic (having first checked that he can read the trooper) - or try local vauxall dealer as they can check as well
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markymoan
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 10:52    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would get the alternator checked to make sure its giving full output.
White smoke is nomally unburned fuel, so it sounds like the oil pressure is high enough to fire the injectors but lacking the power to spin the engine fast enough for it to start, and maybe glow plugs ??
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Chris B
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 11:02    Post subject: Reply with quote

The 3.1 and 3.0 engines are very different in terms of electronics etc... bad starting on 3.0 engines can be caused by a host of problems (some listed here)

- lack of oil pressure in the injector circuit... this can be caused by clogged/broken pickup strainers in the sump or a faulty high pressure oil pump.

- fuel drain back - this can be cured by a one way valve being fitted in the fuel line (milners sell a "Hard start kit" for this)

-  glow plugs/batteries/traditional electrics


One of the best options is to follow tims advice and get it disgnosed on a tech2 computer ... this can measure a host of readings on startup and when running.
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normskee
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 11:10    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gents many thanks for replying so quickly. I did wonder if it was the alternator as the headlights seemed to get dimmer and the offside battery (Day glo Bullseye type) is indicating that it's totally discharged. (Both are new), It jump starts first time. There is no ignition light showing but the voltage gauge appears to read about 12v. I'll get that checked. Thanks again.
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normskee
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 11:42    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just a quick update...Been running for half an hour, still wont start without jump leads. Put a multi meter on both batteries and both reading under 12v. One still showing completely discharged. I was under the impression that it was the nearside battery that was used for starting and the offside one for the ancillaries?
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Chris B
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 13:10    Post subject: Reply with quote

On the 3.0 both batteries are coupled in parralel and so both provide power for the starting etc.
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ravingmad
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 22:02    Post subject: Reply with quote

i would agree with markey on this one...sounds like the alternator...might be worth checking out the charge relay as well
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Webby
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 28, 2007 10:54    Post subject: Reply with quote

Would probably have a look at the earth at the same time and give the terminals and connectors a clean and apply some copper slip.  Plus look at the engine and chassis connections.
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normskee
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 12:25    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chris Beesley wrote:


- fuel drain back - this can be cured by a one way valve being fitted in the fuel line (milners sell a "Hard start kit" for this)


Am I right in thinking the non-return valve goes in the fuel supply line between the filter and the pump? I read a reply to a post by Eithan H that says it's fitted on the return pipe? This would have the effect of blanking the return pipe off to the tank?
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eithan h
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 21:35    Post subject: Reply with quote

nope it defo goes in the return line to stop the vacuum generated in the tank sucking the fuel out of the head
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normskee
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 21:49    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Eithan, thats cleared that bit up.
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markymoan
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 22:04    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just to clear it up a little more, i think it allows pressure from the engine side, but stops sucking from the tank side.
I hope i'm right  Embarassed
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normskee
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 22:15    Post subject: Reply with quote

So not just any old non-return valve then? I'll give Milners a ring and order one. Many thanks to all who replied. Excellent website this, some very knowledgeble people on here.
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normskee
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 03, 2007 17:04    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fitted the new Alternator today. Simple job... Shocked (If you have hands like Jeremy Beadle). Had to remove the Air con pump to even see it. The good news is the voltage gauge on the dash is reading about 14v, and across the battery terminals 14.7v. So hopefully...
Thanks to all who replied again. Cheers.
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