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zeolite *
Joined: 15 Oct 2005 Posts: 19
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Posted: Fri Sep 07, 2007 18:09 Post subject: Desperate measures! |
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Well the MOT man gave me a big list of barely comprehensible descriptions which I decoded and figured out that there is a huge amount of rust and not much metal on my 93 lwb Citation.
The biggest problem is the front crossmember box section being rusted right out. Is there a replacement panel I can buy or do I have to fab sometning up from some channel?
I also need pads and brake hoses which I will get from Halfords. However I need an offside rear brake backplate. Any ideas?
Cheers |
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Posted: Fri Sep 07, 2007 18:09 Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join! |
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Philp *******
Joined: 12 Oct 2004 Posts: 3869 Location: Shropshire
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Posted: Fri Sep 07, 2007 19:26 Post subject: |
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I wasn't aware that backplates on brakes were an MoT requirement. I'm betting its gonna be a breakers or main dealers. As to the front crossmember again, either cut one out of a scrapper or fab one. _________________ Phil
96 or is it a 98 Isuzu Bighorn Lotus |
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:::Matski::: Lifetime member
Joined: 27 Dec 2005 Posts: 5181 Location: York
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Posted: Fri Sep 07, 2007 20:35 Post subject: |
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Mine passed it's MOT without back plates. I took them of as they trap mud and stones
By taking them off there are no rusty crinkly bits for them to see, so they prob won't give it a thought...... |
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moglite ****
Joined: 01 Nov 2006 Posts: 303 Location: winchester
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Posted: Fri Sep 07, 2007 20:49 Post subject: |
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If the back plates are there - they have to be serviceable.
But they don't have to be there - so take 'em off.
Andy |
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zeolite *
Joined: 15 Oct 2005 Posts: 19
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Posted: Fri Sep 07, 2007 22:45 Post subject: |
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Cheers guys.
Crossmember is being fabbed up tomorrow. Tricky job though. I have removed backplates and I just crinkled them up in my bare hands.
Funny thing is that the troper looks mint from the top. |
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Philp *******
Joined: 12 Oct 2004 Posts: 3869 Location: Shropshire
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Posted: Sat Sep 08, 2007 7:39 Post subject: |
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A lot of that is often down to people taking them off road and not cleaning them properly afterwards. If you've been anywhere near thick mud you need to have the wheels off, jetwash everything and even sometimes if its been particularly runny take the rear disks off and clean out the handbrake drum. That plus a good jetwash underneath and regular wax/underbody sealant should hold the tinworm at bay. My brakes caused real problems on the new 3.1 as some joker of a previous owner had left em caked in literally an inch of mud causing all sorts of things to corrode and stick. _________________ Phil
96 or is it a 98 Isuzu Bighorn Lotus |
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gary820 Lifetime member
Joined: 08 Apr 2007 Posts: 2427 Location: Yorkshire
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Posted: Sat Sep 08, 2007 12:40 Post subject: |
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kinda what killed my handbrake not washing it properly everytime!! |
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zeolite *
Joined: 15 Oct 2005 Posts: 19
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Posted: Sun Sep 09, 2007 17:22 Post subject: |
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After a bit of welding magic from my father
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brains ******
Joined: 18 Aug 2006 Posts: 897
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Posted: Sun Sep 09, 2007 20:39 Post subject: |
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good job there m8 give your farther a pat on the back. |
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Hard1 Lifetime member
Joined: 08 Dec 2004 Posts: 3544 Location: New Forest Old Git
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Posted: Sun Sep 09, 2007 22:09 Post subject: |
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Great fabrication job.
BTW, looking at the pictures, I reckon it's almost certainly had a "marine encounter" sometime in it's life.....
I recommend a steam clean followed by a liberal application of Rust Converter such as Fertan or Dinitrol (inside the doors and chassis too) and a nice coating of underbody wax (Waxoyl, Fertan or Dinitrol) otherwise the dreaded tin worms will be feasting on more than just the front crossmember. Special attention to the area above the fuel tank and the very rear chassis rails behind the rear quarter bumper sections which are concealed until you remove the bumper. _________________ 1999 Cougar with a NICE motor..
Click HERE to see under my bonnet! |
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zeolite *
Joined: 15 Oct 2005 Posts: 19
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Posted: Wed Sep 12, 2007 0:19 Post subject: |
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Well welding is now finished however I have another problem.
The rear offside inner brakepad is missing! The piston of the caliper has been grinding on to the disc and the disc is knackered. How the hell could the pad go missing?
Answers please! |
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Mike_S **
Joined: 22 Feb 2007 Posts: 103 Location: Hamilton, New Zealand
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Posted: Wed Sep 12, 2007 7:13 Post subject: |
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Allowed to wear to the point it was so thin it was carried out between the disk and the caliper body? I'd check that either the outer piston (or the caliper body if floating caliper type) isn't siezed, causing the inner pad to have taken all the wear.
Believe it or not, I have seen a clutch not only worn down to the rivets, but worn to the point that all there was left was a few slivers of lining sitting in the bottom of the bellhousing and the sheet metal "spider" the linings are normally riveted to - my stepdaughter's theory is that if it moves it's in good working order!
Mike. |
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zeolite *
Joined: 15 Oct 2005 Posts: 19
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Posted: Wed Sep 12, 2007 14:30 Post subject: |
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Thanks Mike
The caliper and piston seems fine. Just wear on the end of the piston from rubbing on the disc. The outer pad has a lot of meat left on it. |
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Greenlaner **
Joined: 21 Aug 2007 Posts: 110 Location: North Wales
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Posted: Mon Nov 19, 2007 15:24 Post subject: |
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I've noticed a few rust holes in the chassis at the front on my Mk 1 2.8TD. Its on the u shaped crossmember (the upper piece) at the left hand end looking from the front, just before the body mount. Whats the best way to deal with this? Do I need to replace the whole cross piece?
Cheers
Keith |
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Philp *******
Joined: 12 Oct 2004 Posts: 3869 Location: Shropshire
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Posted: Mon Nov 19, 2007 16:24 Post subject: |
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Mine on my old MK1 was just patched. _________________ Phil
96 or is it a 98 Isuzu Bighorn Lotus |
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