Isuzu Trooper Owners Club UK™

flashman · **** Joined: 16 Aug 2003 Posts: 325 Location: Portsmouth

OK chaps in need of a bit of assistance. I am talking about the Ford Transit this time. Posted a while ago about no thermostat in it. I tried taking the thermo cover off but the bolts had seized over a week I emptied half a tin of WD40 over the area in a hope than it may help. Went out yesterday with a spanner and bingo the head snapped off the bolt. The second bolt 'feels' as though it has gone as well.

Question: The bolts are steel and the housing is alli? What is the best or correct way to remove the broken bit of the bolt, there is about 6-8mm of thread showing. I only have the basic tools no taps or dyes etc. I need to get it sorted ASAP as the van is off the road and the wife wants the heater working as the cold is back.

pottytrain2

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dxmedia · Posted: Tue Dec 11, 2007 11:39 Post subject:

If you've not got a stud extractor,

File the top of the snapped bolt flat

Use a punch and put a dimple right in the middle - if you miss > file and punch again

Use a sharp drill bit about 2/3 the size of the stud / bolt

Drill down (dead vertical -- or at least throught the bolt and not into the ally Wink

)

when you've a hole right throught the bolt move up a size drill bit, but make sure you stay smaller than the depth of the thread on the bolt. Once you are close, you should be able to get a pick or something to bend and pull and twist out the remains of the thread.

It takes bleeding ages by the way.

For the others, pop down a plumping supplier and get a blow torch.

Heat the bolts till they are glowing > then try and undo - I'm not sure about doing this if the stat housing is still attached to the engine ??????
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Philp · Posted: Tue Dec 11, 2007 13:02 Post subject:

WD40 is a *beep* penetrant try something like plus gas, the main problem though is galvanic corrosion caused by the two disimilar metals together. Try a sharp tap on the end with a hammer, some heat and then some plus gas, clamp a pair of molegrips on and wiggle it. failing that get down the local scrappy and get a replacement housing. They must be ten a penny as its a ford engine.
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Phil

96 or is it a 98 Isuzu Bighorn Lotus

:::Matski::: · Posted: Tue Dec 11, 2007 13:19 Post subject:

I have done this myself.

Don't go the stud extractor route unless you have to (I have never found a bit that will drill out a snaped off stud exstractor).

Thread a nut on the stud and weld it on with plenty of heat (stick welder is best for this) the heat usually cracks the rust and it will then undo with a spanner Wink

(often with fingers)
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biggus · * Joined: 28 Apr 2007 Posts: 45

Mat's way is the best - without doubt. The heat of the welding actually does most of the work in releasing the stud. Often, the nut you've welded on will just 'turn-off' when you start to undo but just weld another one on and do it again untill it works.
This method, if you have the room to do it, just about always works when removing snapped exhaust studs from motorcycle engines - a very similar scenario. Most mechanics stop trying to use stud extracors even before they finish their apprentiships - they are poo and nearly always break making the job far worse.

dxmedia · Posted: Tue Dec 11, 2007 16:08 Post subject:

You talking about screw or stud extractors?

Stud extractors can't break - they are rollers which grab onto the top of the stud > they will get anything out if you have a set.
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:::Matski::: · Posted: Tue Dec 11, 2007 16:11 Post subject:

They are not what I have always herd of as a stud extractor....
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Front Aussie Locker - Rear LSD - Petrol Diffs
2" Lift - 1" Body lift - +2" shocks - 32" KL71s
2.5" free flow stainless system - TMIC - 20psi Boost
Suckin' Diesel Baby!

dxmedia · Posted: Tue Dec 11, 2007 16:20 Post subject:

NOT

BUT these

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666 · Posted: Tue Dec 11, 2007 16:28 Post subject:

:::Matski::: · Posted: Tue Dec 11, 2007 17:13 Post subject:

Peej · Posted: Tue Dec 11, 2007 17:23 Post subject:

There is just something about new shiny tools, that is just so appealing, no matter how often you are going to use them!
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Chris B · Posted: Tue Dec 11, 2007 18:47 Post subject:

ian roby · Posted: Tue Dec 11, 2007 20:16 Post subject:

just bash old housing off and undo with vice grips refit new housing and bolts dont forget the thermostat Laughing

sorry i could,nt resist this post
after all the tec info i,ve just read i just wanted to put a spanner in the works a housing cant be that exspensive ((can it )) ??

:::Matski::: · Posted: Tue Dec 11, 2007 20:28 Post subject:

Why spend out if you don't need to?

You must be too well off. Go and buy a pajero tongue

_________________
Front Aussie Locker - Rear LSD - Petrol Diffs
2" Lift - 1" Body lift - +2" shocks - 32" KL71s
2.5" free flow stainless system - TMIC - 20psi Boost
Suckin' Diesel Baby!

flashman · **** Joined: 16 Aug 2003 Posts: 325 Location: Portsmouth