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Philp *******
Joined: 12 Oct 2004 Posts: 3869 Location: Shropshire
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Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2007 16:11 Post subject: Radiator Question |
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Right, I'm going to flush my cooling system maybe at the weekend after it got a bit warm in France with my new spots on. I've got a two part Holts speedflush jobby, the idea is you drain the coolant, reverse flush, refill with plain water, add part 1, run at fast idle for 30 minutes, drain, flush, refill with hot water, add part 2 to neutralise part one and to leave some kind of anti corrosion coating, run, drain, flush and refill with the correct coolant mix. Ive got five litres of the latest spec coolant, a new t-stat and gasket on order. I also have some questions:
Is there a drain *beep* on the rad or is it a matter of pulling the bottom hose?
If no. 2 then whats the easiest way to get to it? From above or drop the bash plate and get it from below?
What coolant mix should I be running? 50:50 or a different ratio? Is this covered in the oweners handbook, I had a quick squint and couldn't see it but I do know I need 8.6 litres of coolant in total.
Thanks for your help guys. _________________ Phil
96 or is it a 98 Isuzu Bighorn Lotus |
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Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2007 16:11 Post subject: Google Ads keep this community free to join! |
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Philp *******
Joined: 12 Oct 2004 Posts: 3869 Location: Shropshire
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Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2007 16:11 Post subject: |
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Hey you can't say drain *beep*! _________________ Phil
96 or is it a 98 Isuzu Bighorn Lotus |
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Chris B Lifetime member
Joined: 17 Oct 2005 Posts: 3537 Location: Chorley, Lancashire
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Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2007 16:17 Post subject: |
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Not sure about the 3.1 rads but the 3.0 have a little screw in bung at the bottom (engine side) _________________ Isuzu Rodeo Denver Max LE | 265/65R18 BF Goodrich AT LTM No.60
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eithan h Moderator
Joined: 11 Dec 2005 Posts: 8195 Location: oxfordish
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Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2007 21:09 Post subject: |
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so do the 3.1's |
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Philp *******
Joined: 12 Oct 2004 Posts: 3869 Location: Shropshire
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Posted: Sat Dec 22, 2007 19:50 Post subject: |
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As I'm going to have drained the rad I guess it'll be a good idea to whip it out to give it a good clean in case its clogged with mud as the pratt of a last owner had left the brakes caked in about two inches of mud (although the a/c cooler looks clear in front of the rd) How easy is it to take out and what do I need to undo apart from top and bottom hoses? _________________ Phil
96 or is it a 98 Isuzu Bighorn Lotus |
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:::Matski::: Lifetime member
Joined: 27 Dec 2005 Posts: 5181 Location: York
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Posted: Sat Dec 22, 2007 19:54 Post subject: |
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Cant you see? Must be tight in there!
I tend to run 33% coolant most of the time, but it says on the bottle what you should use for what temp range. _________________ Front Aussie Locker - Rear LSD - Petrol Diffs
2" Lift - 1" Body lift - +2" shocks - 32" KL71s
2.5" free flow stainless system - TMIC - 20psi Boost
Suckin' Diesel Baby!
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Philp *******
Joined: 12 Oct 2004 Posts: 3869 Location: Shropshire
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Posted: Sat Dec 22, 2007 20:21 Post subject: |
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Not looked yet, just being lazy really in case someone else has done it recently and can save me fumbling about! I want to make sure that the gap between the a/c heat exchanger and rad isn't plugged up with mud. _________________ Phil
96 or is it a 98 Isuzu Bighorn Lotus |
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Philp *******
Joined: 12 Oct 2004 Posts: 3869 Location: Shropshire
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Posted: Sat Jan 26, 2008 11:15 Post subject: |
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Right, I've just had a good squint at th the radiator as I was going to give it a flush and fit a new t-stat today as its not raining for once BUT one the inside there are two huge patches where the fins between the tubes have just toally disintegrated and for a distance around it they just crumble when you run your finger over them. I'm guessing this is probably the root cause of my lack of cooling!
I was told a few years ago by a radiator specialist when buying a rad for the wifes Seat Toldeo that the biggest cause of this problem with ally rads is people using traffic film remover and not washing it off properly as it eats the aluminium pretty quickly (well to be fair what I remember from my A level chemistry is that aluminium is a very reactive metal, what makes it very stable is that it forms a well bonded on layer of aluminium oxide and once established this stops any further reaction. Certain chemicals stop this layer sticking and so it just flakes off and the aluminium carries on oxidising We did an experiment painting I think Mercury chloride on a thick piece of ally foil and it got hot enough to boil water in a few minutes!)
It looks like I'm going to have to suck it in and buy a new rad. Has anyone had any experience of eebuygum rads or should I just go to Milners? I've seen these ones item number 280195247153 on egay and they are a good few quid cheaper than Milners who want £150 + vat and carriage. _________________ Phil
96 or is it a 98 Isuzu Bighorn Lotus |
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dxmedia *******
Joined: 04 Mar 2007 Posts: 4677 Location: Hope Valley
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Posted: Sat Jan 26, 2008 12:50 Post subject: |
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How much for a re-core? Might be cheaper still? _________________ For great insurance deals on 4x4s, imports and more, contact Adrian Flux :
01553 845 945 |
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DYLAN Moderator
Joined: 25 Sep 2006 Posts: 5115 Location: Chesterfield, Derbyshire
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Posted: Sat Jan 26, 2008 13:09 Post subject: |
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I seem to remember someone paying for your old rad if you go for a new replacement(not necessarily off him. there's a post on here somewhere), Can't remember how much though but it might recompense you a little. _________________
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:::Matski::: Lifetime member
Joined: 27 Dec 2005 Posts: 5181 Location: York
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Posted: Sat Jan 26, 2008 13:09 Post subject: |
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A mk1 size recore in kork is £110 so a 3.1 will probebly be more. _________________ Front Aussie Locker - Rear LSD - Petrol Diffs
2" Lift - 1" Body lift - +2" shocks - 32" KL71s
2.5" free flow stainless system - TMIC - 20psi Boost
Suckin' Diesel Baby!
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Philp *******
Joined: 12 Oct 2004 Posts: 3869 Location: Shropshire
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Posted: Sat Jan 26, 2008 13:45 Post subject: |
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Yeah Chris Beesley had a quote of £160 + vat to recore his 3.0L rad with a thicker core, but I only tow a little 6' x4' Ifor williams trailer with a max of a ton on board so a standard rad in good shape should suffice really. I think it was 3.0L rads the guy was after not 3.1's as they're plentiful new and he can't get 3.0L ones. As the tooling for plastic and ally rads costs a lot to make I'm prepared to bet there's only a few places knocking them out aftermarket so most probably come out of the same factory. Its not like the old days when stamping out brass/copper ones was pretty simple. I may have a quick phone around on monday and see if I can get a price to have it recored though just in case.
I guess I should have a stab at the cam belt whilst its out as its due in about 3K miles so whilst the rad and fan are out there'll be much more room to work. Where can I get a cam belt kit with the tensioners from as milners only seem to do the belts. _________________ Phil
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Chris B Lifetime member
Joined: 17 Oct 2005 Posts: 3537 Location: Chorley, Lancashire
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Posted: Sat Jan 26, 2008 14:30 Post subject: |
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A re-core of the standard rad at Pheonix was £120+vat ... cheaper than a brand new unit from milners.
Info here... http://www.itocuk.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8954 _________________ Isuzu Rodeo Denver Max LE | 265/65R18 BF Goodrich AT LTM No.60
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Philp *******
Joined: 12 Oct 2004 Posts: 3869 Location: Shropshire
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Posted: Sat Jan 26, 2008 16:04 Post subject: |
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They are available on eebuygum for around £110 all in with a years warranty, as I said, I can't imagine that theres many factories churning these out so its quite likely they all come from the same on in china. _________________ Phil
96 or is it a 98 Isuzu Bighorn Lotus |
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Philp *******
Joined: 12 Oct 2004 Posts: 3869 Location: Shropshire
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Posted: Sat Jan 26, 2008 16:04 Post subject: |
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Thats brand new btw not used. _________________ Phil
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