Isuzu Trooper Owners Club UK™

[andyisuzu]

Oh no - today it went for it's MOT - scarey. My heart was all a flutter and it FAILED.

Nothing major and the advisories are crazy:-

Nearside front wheel bearing - excessive play (tapered bearing so should be easy).

Rear to front brake pipe excessivle corroded (I am going to put on nickel brake pipe).

Nearside rear brake binding (time to get some WD40 and free off the caliper).

Advisories - just about every fuel and brake pipe corroded. Also Chassis is rusty. Brake hoses are rusty on ferrules.

Time for some Waxoyl I think.

Also other front bearing has some free play. (tighten it up).


So questions:-


What size brake pipe? As in 3/8th etc. I can work out the length, what size is the fitting? Also wth the caliper any advice?

I was going to change brake hoses for braided ones, what size? Also What size ferrules?

At least it was nothing major, booked in for retest on Monday - so time to get my skates on.

Andy
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Isuzu Bighorn 3.1TD Auto, Seven Seater 1995 (With Lotus Handling). Love it.

[Google]

[blackbob]

Call me a cheapskate, but if the pipe nuts aren't too rounded or seized on to the old pipe, I cut em off and re-use em.. Then you'll know they're the right size/thread

[andyisuzu]

What size brake line/pipe shouldl I use? How many mm's?

Andy
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Isuzu Bighorn 3.1TD Auto, Seven Seater 1995 (With Lotus Handling). Love it.

[Malcolm]

Far as I know it will just be standard Brake pipe with Metric fittings. Coil of copper brake pipe (dont go nickel) should cost you around £10. Metric brake pipe ends (fittings) will be around 10 pence each. I am asuming you have a flaring tool. if not you will need one of these too.
As far as the caliper goes, you will need to remove and clean up the slider bolts, lubricate with SILICONE grease. If its still binding you will need to push the piston back in with a G Clamp and get someone to pump the pedal 6 or 7 times. Repeat this a few times and that should sort it.
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Never let a meal go by----Empty sacks dont stand up!!!

[andyisuzu]

Hiya,

Well finally after 1.5 hours got the wheel on tha had welded itself to the hub.

Bottom caliper sliding bolt - came undo straight away. Top one - O NO. I have tried everything. It finally become rounded. So now I have a 14m bolt that is wonderfully round. I tried soaking wiht WD40 etc.

Any ideas chaps. I suspect the top one is definently seized.

Andy
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Isuzu Bighorn 3.1TD Auto, Seven Seater 1995 (With Lotus Handling). Love it.

[Malcolm]

I suspect your right. Its siezed!!!. Could try drilling it, but easiest option would be to get another carrier from a breakers and new slider bolts from Milners.
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Never let a meal go by----Empty sacks dont stand up!!!

[Rhanagar]

I have two options for you. First is to get a pipe wrench and use that. Used it on a siezed caliper on my old fronty. Something like this:



Another trick I used on a siezed flywheel bolt was to grind it down into a hex again. Hammer a ring spanner onto the new head and use another longer spanner as a breaker to undo it.

I would suggest before doing either of these is to get some plus gas:



and use this to penetrate the slider. Then get some heat onto it with a small blow torch. Hopefully this will break the bind before you endup totally ripping the head off. Remember to leave a bit of time for the plus gas to do its thing.
_________________
1990 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.I 2.8TD Manual Lotus Edition
1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto Lotus Edition

Deceased
1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto LS

[Malcolm]

Could try hamering a larger nut on the end and weld it throught th middle with a MIG turned up high. That allws you to get a larger spanner on and the heat can work wonders to free it.
I sugested the easy option earlier as I dont know what workshop facilities you have.

Good Luck
_________________
Never let a meal go by----Empty sacks dont stand up!!!

[Gribble]

Further tip on this topic Instead of struggling on your knees in the road  undo the two bolts that hold the mount to the axle ,undo the brake pipe flexy and spin the whole lot off then retreat to shed ,kitchen van ect , where you can get at the tight bolt easy . Plug the brake pipe with a pen cap or pencil .

Second tip . Once you have the slider bolts off put a drill  of the same size as the sliders up the holes to clean them out and put some coppaslip up the hole with a cotton bud before you rebuild . They will never stick up if you do this .

I have seen rear calipers where the bolts were taken out and the holes not cleaned  out that pinched the sliders on rebuild  so it still failed the MOT on brake efficiency .
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2 New Troopers !

[Malcolm]

Gribble,
Just out of interest. I have just had to replace the slider bolts on one of my wifes Volvo 940 rear calipers as one had siesed and the head sheared off.
Spoke withe the brake specialist who supplied the new sliders (brakes international) to ask what grease they recomend for the sliders. He told me that it should be SILICONE Grease and nothing else. I asked about Copaslip and was told NO.
I, like you have used Copaslip for the last 35 years with no adverse afects.
_________________
Never let a meal go by----Empty sacks dont stand up!!!

[Gribble]

Its a old  fitters thing as technically coppaslip or similar dont have the same lubricating properties as a ep grease cos its an anti seize assembly paste  so as a slider moves in and out a bit its not getting lubed .

I am of the opinion thats due to the position of the caliper anything is better than the alloy/stainless of the bolt in dry cast iron .

The more modern ones like PHB do have some lube ability .

We must be old cos silicon grease is fairly new on the scene for diy car work  
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2 New Troopers !

[Malcolm]

You'r right, we must be old Ive been "getting me ands dirty" for longer than I care to remember now, and as you say, use copaslip or similar, on everything and anything that needs to be removed/dissassembled regualy.
I did try the Rocol anti sieze a couple of times but found it dried out with heat. As you say an assebly paste not a lube.
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Never let a meal go by----Empty sacks dont stand up!!!

[Rhanagar]

Coppaslip is also a must if your using bolts in a dissimilar metal .. i.e. stainless bolts in an Aluminium head. Prevents a reaction between metals and them fusing, leading to them being siezed, and the heads being rounded/ripped off next time they are undone.
_________________
1990 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.I 2.8TD Manual Lotus Edition
1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto Lotus Edition

Deceased
1994 Isuzu Bighorn LWB Mk.II 3.1TD Auto LS

[volksjim]

the reason that your not supposed to use coppaslip is it "can" swell rubber hence the reason for using silicon grease only car that ever gave me problems with coppaslip was the 80's vauxhalls front caliper slides..so i removed the"anti rattle" rubbers "never worked anyway" coppaslip them up never to be seen again

[andyisuzu]

Hi all,

Well on Thursday I had liberally coated the sliders and bolts with WD40. So got at six sided socket it on it - gave it a whack with a hammer (the wrench that is) and it came off.  So i cleaned up with some fine sand paper, gave it a wash with thinners, cleaned up the holes with cotton buds and a drill bit (I just pushed it through the hole - not in a drill).

Re-assambled and I think it is sorted.

Andy

P.S. Six sided seems to be better than multi hex.
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Isuzu Bighorn 3.1TD Auto, Seven Seater 1995 (With Lotus Handling). Love it.