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Exhaust Vacuum hose help.

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atlantic.a.616
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Joined: 22 Apr 2012
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Location: Oxford

PostPosted: Sat Nov 30, 2013 4:13    Post subject: Exhaust Vacuum hose help. Reply with quote

Hello, can anyone help me with an issue I ran into? When fitting the OPCV i noticed a loose hose with a valve or filter attached to it, and not sure where it connects to.  I put my hand down under some fuel hoses and pipes and found like a small metal hose connector but when trying to fit it, it felt a bit too big for the hose. Basically I am not sure where the other end of the hose connects to.  I have photos of the hose and filter and the location of where it might connect to.  First picture shows the hose and filter or valve that I found loose.



The second picture shows where the end of the hose might connect to.  You can’t see the hose connector as it is hidden behind the pipes and hoses.  The yellow arrow shows the area where it is located.  Could anyone confirm if this is the correct hose connector or point me in the right direction?  



Kind regards, Simon
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Gribble
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Location: Holset H221W

PostPosted: Sat Nov 30, 2013 21:50    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi without wanting to start a tech war that is the inlet for the  sotf valves leading to the vac pump . Its got a rough sketch of that in the on line manual.
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eithan h
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 30, 2013 22:05    Post subject: Reply with quote

mr G is right is goes down to the evrv just behind the dipstick tube, i think the bit your on about is the drain for the block
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Browndoff
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Joined: 22 Mar 2013
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Location: Dublin 13, Ireland

PostPosted: Sat Nov 30, 2013 23:26    Post subject: Reply with quote

The green plastic unit is the one-way valve for the vacuum-controls of the 4WD-system. When you have re-connected all the tubing, you'll have to check the operation of the SOTF - 'cos if a mistake is made [e.g. turning the one-way-valve the wrong way about!], the 4WD won't engage!



This picture is a combination of several sketches in the PDF manual, which might help you to re-assemble the tubing.
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Red Robbo
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 01, 2013 15:39    Post subject: Reply with quote

Excellant pictorial Bdoff  Very Happy .

Though I would like to comment  Embarassed
                                                           The labels for HP/LP might be better described as Vacuum/Atmosphere ?

and also to state that it is showing the 2WD configuration which is with both solenoids powered up......Just clarifies thinga a bit  Wink
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Red Robbo
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 01, 2013 15:40    Post subject: Reply with quote

Red Robbo wrote:
Excellant pictorial Bdoff  Very Happy .

Though I would like to comment  Embarassed
                                                           The labels for HP/LP might be better described as Atmosphere/Vacuum ?

and also to state that it is showing the 2WD configuration which is with both solenoids powered up......Just clarifies thinga a bit  Wink



Embarassed  Embarassed  Embarassed
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Browndoff
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Joined: 22 Mar 2013
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 01, 2013 17:49    Post subject: Reply with quote

You're right, Robbo, of course!

I had two reasons, though [1] everyone knows that air will move from a High Pressure space to a Low Pressure space and I thought that it MIGHT make more clear how the air would actually MOVE in the system - arguably, it was NOT more clear! [2] HP and LP just simply FITTED more easily into tight spaces in the diagram!!!

As Robbo points out, HP = atmospheric pressure, etc.

BTW          That one-way valve is VITAL - it keeps the vacuum within the reservoir [beneath the passenger-seat], which acts like a 'battery' to keep the 4WD part of the vacuum-system going for a while in the event of the upper tubes becoming undone. Obviously, it won't last 'for ever' - so you've GOT TO re-assemble the tubing correctly!!
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atlantic.a.616
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 02, 2013 22:02    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great stuff everyone, all fitted together and now awaiting the ECU to arrive in 2 weeks time Smile  will let you know how I get on Smile
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atlantic.a.616
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 13, 2013 19:39    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi everyone, ECU fitted, but unfortunately engine starting symptom’s back.  engine started, ran good for 8 mins then it seem to have stalled for a split second then continued running.  Then about 20 seconds later it stalled again and then continued running.  at 10 mins it shut down.  a few try's and it started again, this time only for 2 mins then shutdown again.  won't start again, and the batteries gave up.  it felt like it had overheated.  previously it did the same thing and when it cooled down it would then start again. the radiator felt warm to indicate circulation, and dash temp gauge read just below 1/4. would bad battries cause this?   not sure if this is relevant  but my previous alternator burnt out around the same time i started experiencing starting issues, and now when touching the new alternator casing it is very hot.  Any more ideas what might be causing the starting issues?  things i've tried, changed the injector harness, replaced Oil pressure sensor, replaced high oil pressure pump, tried the extra oil in the sump, checked the OPCV, tested ECU, emptied fuel tank, checked all fuel lines.  Unfortunately ISUZU is not in UK and unable to get my hands on a TECH2 Sad.  cheers, Simon
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Browndoff
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 13, 2013 20:34    Post subject: Reply with quote

You mentioned a NEW ECU - but you also specifically said you DID NOT have a Tech2 [or, presumably, any other suitable Data Reader]! When the ECM [or ECU] is replaced, it must be programmed with the ratings of the Injector in each cylinder and with the Zero-Point of the ORPS [and, less importantly, the TPS]. It'd be amazing if it DID run properly!

It's worrying to see you write that the Alternator is very hot - yet you had the engine running for less than ½ hour...? You mentioned that the dashboard thermometer went only ¼-way and so the 'rest' of the system is still barely warm! Something would have to be shorted electrically [or 'binding' mechanically] to make the Alternator hot so quickly. You couldn't have been touching the Starter-Motor, could you.............?

You also mentioned that you "checked the ROPCV" - d'you mean only that you poked it and the valve moved?? It could be blocked internally with dirt and still allow the 'visible' valve to move. When the ECM signals the Solenoid to open it, say, at 35% - it actually only moves a piston within the ROPCV which allows the oil-pressure to actually open the main-valve to the specified degree. So if the internal needle-valve were stuck [or broken - as in one case handled recently by Gribble], then the main-valve would no longer be under the control of the ECM and the motor could not run properly.

In the absence of a Tech2, you'll, at least, have to get a multimeter and check out the voltages at the ECM terminals while she's being cranked and/or actually running. You could then compare these with the 'normal range'.

These tables were derived from info in the PDF Manual and checked against a couple of running engines.
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atlantic.a.616
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Joined: 22 Apr 2012
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 13, 2013 22:22    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Browndoff, sorry should have explained better, the ECU was taken out and sent to UK for testing which came back as no issues found.  I suspected this as the engine started but for piece of mind got it tested.  Yep it was the altenator that was getting very hot, many moons ago I used to work in an automotive store and also did a little bit of mechanic work, but these were straight forward engines with less electonics.


Yes you are right with regards to the ROPCV, I only moved the valve using a toothpick.  I was going to strip the valve down further but thought I might damage the cylinder trying to unscrew it with vice grips.  Now that you mentioned what might have happened it will make sense to be careful as poss and open it for checking.  

Thanks for the voltage table, soon as the batteries are charged and able to get the engine running will check the voltages.

Many thanks for the advice and help Smile  Cheers, Simon
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atlantic.a.616
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 17, 2013 9:11    Post subject: Reply with quote

hello everyone, still experiencing running issues.  Opened the ROPCV valve, did not find any dirt or oil debris in the valve.  I also found a ROPCV on a reconditioned High pressure oil pump i sent out a few years ago.  Replaced the ROPCV but still had same issue.  Ran for 8 minutes, then 3 times it kinda stalled but kept running and then approx 2 minutes later it cut out.  Checked for DTC codes using the MIL light and found DTC 26 equivalent to P0405 (EGR Pressure Sensor Low Voltage) and P0406 (EGR Pressure Sensor High Voltage).  Checked the connectors and vacuum hoses and all seem to be OK.  Cleared the code by removing the power connector on ECM following day tried again.  Engine started and ran without MIL light showing.  When it stopped about 10 minutes later 2 MIL codes showed up DTC 26 and DTC 34 (P0108, MAP Sensor Circuit High Voltage).  I am assuming this is only triggered when the engine is switching off and not an actual fault with the EGR and MAP, only guessing.  I removed the electrical connector and tested the voltage with the ignition key in the ON position.   EGR Pressure sensor, the Blue lead from ECM (J2-27) showed 0 volts.  And I had the same on the MAP sensor Blue/Yellow lead from ECM (J2-23).  Also had the same reading when the engine was idling.  Not sure if the connections needed to be connected during testing or this is normal.  Cleared codes again this morning but again after about 8 minutes the engine cut out again and both codes reappeared.  

Hello Browndoff with regards to testing the voltages from the ECM leads while the engine is running.  With the wire ends not exposed in connectors, is there a method you could recommend to get to the wires? I am thinking shaving a piece of the protective plastic off the lead and after testing, wrap it with insulating tape.

Thanks, Simon
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atlantic.a.616
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Joined: 22 Apr 2012
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 17, 2013 18:59    Post subject: Reply with quote

today found carbon like buildup in the the inlet manifold connector that connects the vacuum hose from the MAP sensor, located just below the EGR valve.  it was blocked.  I cleaned it out with a long small screw and a screwdriver.  however i am sure more buildup is on the inside.  would this cause the engine to cut out after about 10-15 minutes?
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Gribble
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 17, 2013 21:04    Post subject: Reply with quote

That has the makings of the crank sensor failing or going out of range .

Check the crank free play first at the fan belt pulley ,want to be no more than 8 thou .

If its ok then swap the crank sensor with the cam one (trust me on this ) bit fiddly as the plugs round the other way and see if it stays going.

Or do the tests in the manual for reading the volts at the ECU from the crank sensor but check the earth wire as some of the manuals have the earth as a different color,just look at the wires in the 5 pin plug on the ECU two are red lives 3 and 4 are earths so thats the earth colour in the sensors .
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atlantic.a.616
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Joined: 22 Apr 2012
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 18, 2013 18:31    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Gribble, I did not manage to test the 8 thou movement.  it was too fine of a movement to notice and did not have a dial depth gauge to monitor.  however I could borrow one and i assume I would need to take the tension off the belts to perform this test.

So i did the sensor swap today. found the crank sensor connector covered and full of oil and oring missing.  The body of the sensor had like a burnt oil type colour to it.  

The camshaft was looked OK and it had an oring.  Put an oring on the crankshaft sensor and cleaned the sensor and cleaned the connectors with electrical cleaning spray.  swapped the sensors but the engine would not start.  Tried a many times but no joy.  Swapped the sensors back and started first time.  Trooper ran for 10 minutes before it kinda stalled, but kept on running and then at 13 minutes it cut out.  let me know if there is something else I could try.

Kind regards, Simon Smile
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